A smooth silhouette. Wires that you forget exist? Organic natural fabrics? There are a lot of things that we as women are told to look for in bras. But, shopping for organic bras is fairly new. That’s because while lacy patterns and demi cups have become de rigueur, terms like ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ are still fairly new in the world of undergarments. But, as we become more conscious about the impact of clothing on the environment and our health, they shouldn’t be. I’ve written about this before and my frustration with wire bras. This time, I’m testing out an organic bra from a designer who has been crafting organic intimate apparel for more than 20 years- Germaine Caprio.
The bras for her brand Majamas are made with GOTS certified organic cotton. When I slipped on the organic padded sporty bra it felt light and silky with a fit that allowed me to move and breathe. (For anyone who hates wires and metal clips that feel that they’re digging into your ribs, you know that comfort is a top priority.)
As a woman’s whose brand that has been crafting organic and ethically-made garments since 1999, I was excited to hear Germaine’s insight about how she’s built her brand sustainably and how the industry has changed over the last few decades. And, as an business woman and environmentalist, she was excited to share her journey into building a brand whose aim isn’t to harm the planet.
What Inspired You To Create Your Sustainable Brand?
I was inspired by my mom, an environmentalist who died in 1998. By 1999, I had opened with Nordstrom.
It started with an idea for a tank top for new moms. I grabbed a piece of fabric from a store and it happened to be organic cotton. And, it worked so she decided to stick with that fabric. But, after researching I realized that I didn’t want to do anything that’s treated with pesticides to be next to my skin, next to my daughter. And, I thought about my mom saying, “you can’t impact the planet through apparel.”
What Do You Think Is The Negative Impact Of Fast Fashion?
The throw away culture never sat well with me. Why create cheap goods just to wear a few times and throw away? Fast fashion has been one of the worst moments for the planet. It created this consumer who thinks that anything over $10 is an expensive garment. That was the biggest change and one of the worst things that could have happened for the planet.
What Were Some Of Your Biggest Obstacles As a New Sustainable Brand In 1999?
The biggest obstacle I had in 1999 was finding local contractors to make my brand. I didn’t want to have to invest in fuel that you have to ship across the country.
On an ethical note, there are sweatshops in the states. I realized that after I hired someone to do the vetting for me. Since, then I’ve learned that I always have to meet my contractors face-to-face. Since then, I’ve found good contractors in Philadelphia and Chicago. I’m very loyal to him and he’s been very good with him. And, it’s better than shipping a container across the ocean to China.
What Are Some Of The Obstacles That You Face Today?
Right now, it’s circularity. It’s very difficult to make a circular garment. There are very new and interesting fibers used in new collections, but they don’t always last or wear well and you can’t add lycra to it.
I’m trying to find a way using a circular lycra- but it’s super expensive. And, that’s where you have to realize that it narrows down- when a pantie costs $40. Right now, our panties are $18-$20.
Pre-covid I was going to work with fabric made from pine trees. It would have upped the price to $85. The cost of the fabric during covid made it triple. It breaks my heart to have a price increase and be circular. As an entrepreneur you have to ask who is your consumer and what are they willing to spend?
How Has The Industry Changed In Terms Of Sustainability?
Most designers didn’t think about sustainability at the time. There was no talk of modal, tencel, or recycled fabrics. At the time I insisted on using organic fabric. It cost more, but I thought, “I have to do what’s right or not make this stuff.”
Also, everyone was making their garments overseas. People would tell me, “You know you can make it cheaper in China?” Everyone had a great idea for how I could save money, but it’d only impact the planet negatively. We were one of the few who were just launching and making it an USA brand. Now, there are more companies insisting about that today. It’s kinda come full circle.
How Do You Ensure That Your Clothing Is Made Ethically?
Having my manufacturing done in the U.S allows me to avoid sweatshops. In the beginning of my journey, I assumed that being based in the U.S meant that everything was ethically run and then I realized that it was all around us. I saw one where they were sewing without masks and inhaling fibers and threads. It was an eye opener.
I also like to have my production here because I can go into my car or the train and I can go check it out. My bra shop is in Chicago, 6 blocks from my office. I’ve always been very close working with them for 18 years. I’m very loyal to the guys who work with me. They’re being paid over $15 hour and both are family run.
What Should Customers Know About Sustainable Fashion?
Think about what it costs to make a $15 dress- the fabric, if it’s sustainable, costs more than $15. For me the fabric will cost more than it does to make. Think about who’s cutting it. Who’s sewing it? What are the people being paid? A sustainable business is so much more than the fabric that it’s made from. It’s the ethical treatment of people and being sure that they’re paid enough to feed their families. There is so much more to it.
One of the worst parts of being an environmentalist is that you see what the planet is doing and we all just still consider… we get silenced in a way.
What Does The Term ‘Sustainable’ Mean To You?
Sustainable is such a large and subjective term. It’s important to learn about a brand and to figure out what the term means as far as what sustainable means to them. There’s really more detail that you need to look into to realize that they’re the real deal.
How Do You Minimize Your Environmental Impact In Your Day To Day?
I’ve been a vegetarian since 1975. I believe that red meat and chicken and industrial farms are a big polluter. I drive a hybrid and I’m getting an electric car when I need a new one. I’m also within a bicycle ride to my office and I try to keep my production local.
On a personal level I eat all organic and I don’t shop a lot. I believe that any garment that you buy should be washed and worn 30 times to be called sustainable. So, that’s what I do. I make it my practice.
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