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Monday, June 21, 2021

The Wolf Cut: A Brief History of K-pop’s Most Divisive Trend

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Nothing sets stan Twitter ablaze quite like a K-pop idol with long hair. But add a bit of voluminous fringe and some wispy layers, and it’s a guaranteed firestorm. When Beomgyu, a member of TXT (Tomorrow X Together), debuted his fresh look in the promotional photos for the group’s new album The Chaos Chapter: FREEZE, fans (and his fellow bandmates) were quick to collectively celebrate his hairstyle — a hybrid of a tousled shag and a modified mullet, otherwise known as a wolf cut. 



Courtesy of BIGHIT MUSIC.

If you are not a MOA, chances are you’ve seen this Gen Z-approved cut on TikTok, where the “wolf cut” tag has already accumulated over 230 million views. Many young people are even DIY-ing the edgy chop mainly via the “one-minute mullet” trend, with results often falling on the shaggier side of the mullet spectrum.

Named for its untamed essence, the now-uber popular wolf cut is choppy and full of texture, framed by soft, graduated layers around the face. A favorite in South Korean salons, the style is shorter in the front and tapered in the back (like a mullet) but unfussy and effortlessly piecey (like a shag). There’s certainly overlap when it comes to naming but think of wolf cuts as the in-between between the two. The layering and versatility of wolf cuts are the keys to the style. One can achieve an edgier (and more mullet-y) twist by opting to shave the sides of the head or go for a softer, much subtler take closer to a shag or a “Hershey” cut, with added length. Wolf cuts even leave room to play around with bangs and sideburns. 

Though naming might vary, nowadays, celebs like Miley Cyrus, Barbie Ferreira, Bretman Rock, and even Debby Ryan are pulling off different iterations of the wolf cut. And, in the K-pop world, Choi Beomgyu‘s is reigning supreme. “I think [I] really suit this hair so well,” Beomgyu said during a recent livestream — and judging from the frenzied responses on Twitter, fans overwhelmingly agree. (MOAs have even created a somewhat of a sub-fandom for the cut: Wolftoris.)

The mullet and all of its chic variations — from short shags to soft-serve mullets to hime cuts and hush cuts — are undoubtedly trendy right now, but the wolf cut has been a polarizing K-pop style staple since the mid-aughts. Second-generation idols like TVXQ’s Jaejoong, Super Junior’s Leeteuk and Eunhyuk, and SHINee’s Taemin brought the shaggy cut back to the forefront of South Korean entertainment decades after soccer star Kim Byungji popularized its most extreme version in the 1990s.



Screenshot. Courtesy of SM Entertainment.



Getty Images.

One of the goalkeeper’s striking looks of choice, it soon became his signature. His intimidating ‘do matched his aggressive playing style. Short on the sides, long in the back, the jarring “Kim Byungji haircut” was a major trend for South Korean men who wanted to evoke the masculine, “tough guy” image of the K-League athlete — and, believe it or not, MacGyver. 

The fictional TV hero, played by Richard Dean Anderson, was the titular focus of the primetime action series, which ran from 1985 to 1992 in the U.S. The series also became a hit in South Korea, which in turn made MacGyver’s luxurious mullet a symbol of masculinity among Korean men. (MacGyver was also so popular in South Korea that Swiss army knives are also commonly referred to as 맥가이버칼, literally “MacGyver knife.”) 

However, the hairstyle wasn’t always the picture of machismo. David Bowie’s otherworldly alter ego Ziggy Stardust was also the epitome of androgyny in the 1970s. His iconic copper high-low cut, spikey on top, was reportedly inspired by a photo he saw of a model for fashion designer Kansai Yamamoto in a 1971 copy of Honey magazine. He asked his hairstylist Suzi Ronson to recreate it. “I was thinking, “That’s a little weird — it’s a woman’s hairstyle,'” she said in an interview with The Daily Mail’s You Magazine. (Actor Jane Fonda famously rocked one herself, which was forever immortalized in her 1970 mugshot. Fonda’s take on the style also became synonymous with the film Klute, which earned her the Oscar for Best Actress in 1972.)





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NEWS EDITOR
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